GORK JOURNAL

Spaso-Evfimiev Monastery

Photo: GORK
Project: Prisoner Corps Garden
Landscape: МОХ
Architecture: NOYD
Geo: Suzdal, RU


It so happened that we've been visiting Suzdal with our runner friends for three years now, and a week before the event, I stumbled upon an article by colleagues from Archiru discussing the prisoner courtyards of Spaso-Evfimiev Monastery, reimagined by the guys from the MOH and NOYD bureaus.

The monastery itself is a massive fortress surrounded by a moat, with churches, chambers, a bell tower, and a prison inside. In previous years, I always passed by. I'm correcting that now.

There are two prison courtyards, both leading you along a narrow walkway somewhere beyond the horizon. The first one goes through seemingly chaotic bright flower beds: an allegory to the people who served their exile and punishment here. The second one leads through a mono-dry landscape with perfectly white walls and a huge birch tree at the center of the composition. If you abstract from the fact that very different people — from political prisoners to notorious villains like sectarian castrates — sat here, the picture seems almost idyllic. I had a feeling that if I pulled on the large door handle at the end of the walkway, a panorama of the Mediterranean Sea somewhere in Santorini would open up. However, behind the door awaited a dialogue that quickly brought me back to reality:

— May I take a peek?
— Well, you’re not Kutuzov!

Don’t get me wrong; I paid for the entrance — it’s just that further on were exhibitions “under the roof,” and I wanted to understand how worthwhile it was to spend time on them. In the end, I added a diamond to my collection of quotes.

P.S. Besides the prison courtyards, be sure to see Dmitry Pozharsky's tomb. I spent about forty minutes admiring the decorative patterns on the facade of this tiny structure. The marble mausoleum, designed by Gornostayev, was built in the mid-19th century, dismantled in the 1930s, and recreated in 2009. Yet I kept wondering why the facade of Polytech in central Moscow, with a hundred times more budget resources, looks like a dull imitation compared to this mausoleum.

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