My grandfather was a carpenter. For him, an axe was what a processor is for rendering. It could be used for everything from rough log hewing to delicate trim work. However, it’s now cheaper and faster to order the same log building from a manufacturer, which has inevitably led to a decline in knowledge of wooden architecture. This became acutely clear to me when I decided to visit Kizhi on my way back from Teriberka.
For those unaware, Kizhi is a wooden ensemble assembled without the use of iron. It’s surrounded by Lake Onega and can only be accessed by boat. By pure chance, I spent the night with a person in charge of the administrative processes of reconstruction, who shared many fascinating details.
Kizhi is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. According to their rules, reconstruction and replacement of up to 30% of the elements are permissible. This means we have the opportunity to see an original wooden ensemble that’s over 300 years old. Neither the harsh Karelian climate nor the upheavals of revolutions and wars have affected their appearance.
This likely became possible due to four factors:
The absence of access roads and pedestrian crossings;
A powerful natural stone foundation from a glacier;
The attitude of the local residents;
The unquestionable skill of the builders.
Since the beginning of the reconstruction, every element has been examined, and all rotted blocks have been replaced. It’s important to note that they can, of course, be distinguished by color, but the texture and woodworking technology remain the same. Kizhi, with its hidden technological features, reminds me of Zaryadye (paths, lighting, identity), especially in terms of fire safety. The systems in place there are unlike anything I’ve seen elsewhere.
P. S. You can get there by hydrofoil from Petrozavodsk or by car. Choose the latter. The road is excellent, and the views are breathtakingly beautiful.